After being a bit dismissive of Malang in the last post I ended up having a pretty good time. We found Jodipan, a run down, riverside district which had been turned into a tourist town by painting it bright colours. It had the affect of making it absurdly cheerful.
So, in celebration of that here's some bits of bonafide useful advice (and yes, I know I've warned you against listening to me for tourist advice but sometimes you've got to share the love, particularly when you've put in the legwork).
If you want a beer in the city centre your best bet is Bhaswara cafe on the northern side of Tugu Plaza. It's a garden cafe which may be a jazz club but only seemed to be playing metal.
The only other "bar" selling beer we found was The Library on Jl Guntur, two blocks east of the so called Millionaire's Row. The Library is primarily a coffee shop where the people in the big houses come for overpriced brunch. Which doesn't stop it from being about the coolest place we found.
I'm in Surabaya now. I only had a couple of hours to explore last night so don't think I saw all of the Second City's charms. Got to hope there's more than just a fish market and some rats. It was a good fish market though and the rats were kind of cute.
Weirdest thing consumed. Lawak coffee. Obviously it was only a matter of time. I'd been put off by the prospect of battery-farmed civets being force fed coffee beans, but found somewhere where they at least said that the civets were wild. So is coffee that has been pooped out by a cat noticably better than any other coffee? Not to my uncouth tastings.
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