I had pretty low expectations for Ahmedabad. All I knew about it was that it was massive (biggest A city in the world, don't you know? A bit bigger than Athens and Amsterdam combined) and whatbthe guidebook said. And the guide book I had, absolutely slated it. And guide books normally paint a fairly positive picture of things, so I feared the worst.
Ahmedabad is ace. I'm staying right in the middle of the rickety streets in the old city and it's just about the first urban environment where I've not been able to hear motorbike horns. I'm staying in French Haveli, It's completely Best Exotic Marigold.
When I was asking people what to do I was told to visit Ghandi's Ashram (tick - saw his flipflops and everything) and the step well. I fear I may have visited the wrong step well. People have been telling me how busy the step well is, rather than how difficult it was to find behind the charcoal factory.
So what do people do of an evening in a city with no bars? Turns out they go to night markets. They are insane. I didn't really understand them. I can eat as much as the next man, but there's only a finite time I can stuff my face with streetfood.
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