At the risk of going boringly Lonely Planet on you, Kirkenes is basically in Russia. It's east of St Petersburg (fairly remarkably it's also east of Istanbul, which hurts my head a little bit) and the street names are bilingual, that's how in Russia it is. Yet it also has troll souvenirs and a designer kitchen appliance shop to let you know you're still in Norway. Added ro that there's door to door sheet ice to add a smattering of mild peril to every day life.
In other news, I've still not seen any wildlife more interesting than a seagull and those Aurora things - despite being all shiny back in Blighty - are conspicuous by their absence in these parts.
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