I've been to Kirkenes. Now you've almost certainly not heard of Kirkenes because it's really far away. It's still in Norway, but I am probably further from Oslo than you are. Unless you're reading this from Malaysia where my blog is inexplicably popular, in which case, well done, you win.
At the risk of going boringly Lonely Planet on you, Kirkenes is basically in Russia. It's east of St Petersburg (fairly remarkably it's also east of Istanbul, which hurts my head a little bit) and the street names are bilingual, that's how in Russia it is. Yet it also has troll souvenirs and a designer kitchen appliance shop to let you know you're still in Norway. Added ro that there's door to door sheet ice to add a smattering of mild peril to every day life.
In other news, I've still not seen any wildlife more interesting than a seagull and those Aurora things - despite being all shiny back in Blighty - are conspicuous by their absence in these parts.
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