I'm in the belly of the continent, about as remote as it gets. That's unfair, I'm apparently in the 4th largest "city" in the Northern Territory. It's a hotel complex. Which probably says more about how very empty Australia is than anything else. Still it is big, red and really flat. Which is pretty much what I was expecting.
Yesterday I visited Kata Tjuta (formerly the olgas), the second most famous rock formation around here. It is really big and really red.
Watched sunset at Uluru. One of the most average sunsets I've ever seen. Just cloudy. The big red rock stayed a greyish brown throughout. M'eh. I tried sunrise this morning, a second chance to see the rock change colour. It was amazing. Not the colour change, but the fact that there were at least ten tourist coaches there. That's the other side of 500 people getting up before 5 to see light refract at a rusty stone, in the hope that it glowed golden. It didn't. It just stood on the plain like a moustache without a face.
Still no witchetty grubs. Not for lack of trying. I asked a park ranger if he could fix me up: "Sorry mate, it's only the Aboriginal women that know where to find them, and they haven't really bothered since the supermarket opened." Fair.
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