Rishikesh seemed a whole heap calmer this time round. Not certain whether it's because I'm a lot more used to the hooting pandemonium that is India or because it was genuinely a whole heap more calm with it not being Durga Pooja.
Had a pretty different experience this time round too. Way more sensible than last time's daft treks. We snuck in a safari to Rajaji National Park. Didn't see tiger / leopard / king cobra. Did see loads and loads of deer and peacocks. And a hyena, that's kind of cool, right? I didn't know they had hyena in India.

1. It is incredibly cheap.
2. The views of the Ganges winding its way through the Himalayan foothills are absolutely phenomenal.
And, as a bonus, you get to see monkeys on rocks. Everyone loves monkeys on rocks.
I finally found a way to stop everyone asking for selfie-with-me at tourist attractions. Hang around with a white girl. It's like an invisibility cloak for selfies. Noone wants a picture of the angry looking white man when there's a smiley, female alternative that's still pink around the edges from Holi.
This cloaking device only works for selfies, it has the opposite effect for any kind of business transaction. Turns out if there is Man around it is compulsory for all questions and money to pass through Man. Everyday sexism to a ludicrous extent.
In other news, I finally made it to the Red Fort. I'd put off going as I'd only heard bad things, but it was alright. Yes it's not as good as Agra Fort and yes it looks like it could do with a cuddle; but it's a veritable oasis of calm in the madness that is Chandi Chowk, and for that alone it should be celebrated.
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