Number 7

I'm in Antarctica. Or at least I was when I wrote this. Strangely internet access doesn't seem great in this enormous desolate continent.

Getting here took a bit longer than it should. The Drake Passage was full of weather as we left, so we spent best part of a day hanging in the entrance to the Beagle Channel with sporadic dolphin activity providing the only real diversion.

We spent the first proper day in the South Shetland Islands. Half Moon Island provided the first penguin fix, with chinstraps rockhopping all over the place. For birds with no facial expressions, the amount of concentration on their face when rockhopping is impressive.

The afternoon was spent on Deception Island. Yes, that sounds like a Bond villain lair. Yes, it is in an active volcano. No, it is nowhere near as exciting as it sounds. It was a handful of ramshackle huts on a cold and rainy beach. It reminded me of Dungeness.

Day 2 saw the first continental landing, on Neko Harbour. Day 2 also saw the first snow. And the second snow. And third. Snow wasn't in any danger of not being part of the authentic Antarctic experience. Neither were dead penguins. The weather went pretty, erm, aggressive which meant the rest of the day was somewhat ship bound. Although we did manage to get the first whale sighting.

The weather was a whole heap better the next morning, which meant wildlife was out in force: double figures of humpback whales before breakfast. A trip to (the ridiculously scenic and penguin filled) Petermann Island followed before getting up close and personal with a family of whales.

Within twenty four hours whales had gone from never-seen phenomenon to curious backdrop to a barbecue.

That afternoon was spent cruising the so-called Iceberg Alley. Unsurprisingly saw a host of icebergs and a fair few seals, including a leopard seal and its teeth.

Melchior Island delivered more penguins, ice, rocks and seals. Paradise Bay delivered the exit through the gift shop moment - an enterprising Chilean ice station has set up a tiny museum cum post office cum souvenir shop. They seemed pretty pleased to see us, but then I guess that a boat full of idiots have more disposable income than the local religious penguins.

So yeah, two Drake Passage crossings under my belt, I feel like I've earned by sea legs. Been precipitated on on three different days on the self-styled driest continent, which almost earns me a weather badge. I've seen two different types of penguin, three types of seal, two flavours of whale and a host of icebergs.

Antarctica, the Big White Wilderness, the Last Continent: box ticked.